Beer in a can used to be the hallmark of the largest beer brands, but that’s no longer the case.

Craft beer companies are embracing cans because the packaging is lighter, cheaper, recyclable and protects beer better than a bottle.

Ska Brewing Co. started packaging with cans in 2003, and as of Tuesday, all but a few of the company’s beers are now being sold in cans, said co-founder Dave Thibodeau.

Ska’s Buster Nut Brown, Steel Toe Stout and Decadent Imperial India Pale Ale were the last three beers to make the transition from 12-ounce bottles to cans.

Steamworks Brewing Co. has also made the transition from a bottled line-up to cans. About 98 percent of their distributed product is in cans, said co-founder Kris Oyler.

One of the early barriers to canning craft beer was printing cans. Craft breweries struggled to fill 2 million cans at a time, which was the smallest amount the companies could order, Oyler said.

Bottled craft beer became associated with quality and diversity and canned beer attracted a stigma, Thibodeau said.

Ska Brewing was the second craft brewing company to can its beer because cans are much easier to take hiking, backpacking and on other outdoor adventures.

“It just became a more attractive package for individuals living in a place like Durango,” Thibodeau said.

It also ensures the flavor of the beer won’t be changed by ultra-violet light, which can permeate a bottle and break down some of the characteristics of hops.

“It’s not a bad flavor, it’s a different flavor,” he said of bottled beer.

Ska will still bottle some beers, including seasonal and limited releases because the company is unable to can a small batch of beer. They will also continue selling Decadent Imperial India Pale Ale, Nefarious Ten Pin Imperial Porter and True Blonde Dubbell in 22-ounce bottles.

Steamworks is also expanding its selection of canned beer.

In February, the company announced that its nitrogenated Backside Stout would be sold in cans. Craft brewer Left Hand Brewing helped pioneer nitrogenated canned beer, but it’s a tough technique, Oyler said.

Steamworks canned the first batch of Backside in December but held off making an announcement about it until they were sure they had recreated the right texture and flavor, he said. Nitrogen bubbles are smaller and less invasive than carbon dioxide.

Nitrogenated draft beer is traditionally poured through a special faucet, which contains a diffuser plate, allowing the tiny bubbles to create a visual “cascade” effect in the liquid, said Ken Martin, Steamworks director of brewing operations.

The company recreated this effect, dosing each can with a small amount of liquid nitrogen right after filling each can and just prior to capping it. This keeps the nitrogen in liquid form.

The intention is for stout drinkers to immediately turn the can upside down and pour the beer into a flat-bottom glass.

mshinn@durangoherald.com