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‘Biased, misleading’ on wilderness climbing

I’m writing in response to the biased and misleading Writers on the Range guest column by Dana Johnson, regarding wilderness climbing. Firstly, she completely mischaracterizes the Protecting America’s Rock Climbing Act. This legislation does not encourage or even allow indiscriminate bolting in wilderness areas.

In fact, it upholds the regulations that dictate the use of protection bolts in wilderness areas. Wilderness “sport crags” will not be a result.

The bill addresses a centralized policy toward the longstanding use of fixed anchors in wilderness areas, which predates the Wilderness Act of 1964. These might be slings around a tree or pitons or even bolts. It is a practice that made most of Yvon Chouinard’s climbing possible and is necessary to descend many technical alpine objectives safely. Here’s what the bill will actually do:

* Require the secretaries of interior and agriculture to issue national guidance on management of climbing within wilderness areas;

*Clarify that climbing, including sustainable placement, use and maintenance of fixed anchors are appropriate uses within wilderness areas;

* Preserve the existing authority of land management agencies to regulate climbing to ensure it protects wilderness characteristics, natural resources and cultural values; and

* Provide for public participation in decisions affecting climbing in wilderness areas.

I respectfully urge the writer to do a bit more research before she condemns user groups and practices she clearly has little understanding of.

I am not affiliated with the access fund, but have been an active climber for 50 years, and wilderness lover.

Stephen Elder

Durango